The Monti Dauni, the hills of northern Puglia, are the Puglia of stone villages and quiet countryside rather than beaches. Here are the hill towns worth a visit and five specialities to try there: strascinati pasta, ricotta forte, black pig salami, burnt wheat bread and Nero di Troia wine.

Puglia is not only crystal-clear sea and dream beaches. Beyond the classic summer holiday, the region offers all year round a less known but equally fascinating side: small villages surrounded by nature, perfect for a day out. Among green hills and sweeping views, the Monti Dauni are an ideal destination for anyone looking for peace, authenticity and a beauty that seems untouched by the years.

Rolling hills of the Monti Dauni with harvested wheat fields and a hilltop village in the distance

Apulian villages where the clock seems to have stopped

In this corner of Puglia the hilltop villages have kept their traditions intact and welcome visitors with picturesque corners and an old-world atmosphere. Among the most striking to explore:

  • Bovino, with its castle from the Middle Ages and its paved lanes;
  • Lucera, famous for its imposing Roman amphitheatre and its Swabian fortress, from the age of the Hohenstaufen emperors;
  • Sant’Agata di Puglia, a true “balcony” over the surrounding hills, known for its stone houses and wide views;
  • Accadia, with its old town centre and narrow alleys;
  • Faeto, surrounded by woods and known for a food tradition tied to the black pig.

Tucked away among the Monti Dauni, these villages combine nature, history and flavour, and make every season a good one for a visit far from the usual tourist routes.

The cooking here makes skilful use of fresh, local ingredients, the expression of a tradition that values its raw materials and tells the story of this land. Here are five specialities not to miss.

1. Strascinati: the essence of local pasta

Strascinati are one of the most typical fresh pastas of the area, made from durum wheat semolina and water. Their hollow shape comes from “dragging” the dough with the fingers across the pastry board (strascinare means to drag), and it is perfect for holding hearty sauces of seasonal vegetables, such as chicory or cime di rapa (turnip tops, a bitter leafy green much loved in Puglia), or rich sauces like ragù. The simple ingredients and the handmade technique make strascinati a symbol of the honest, rustic cooking of the Monti Dauni.

2. Ricotta forte: a cheese with character

Ricotta forte, “strong ricotta”, is a cheese with an intense, distinctive flavour, typical of the dairy tradition of the Monti Dauni. It is made from sheep’s milk ricotta left to ferment for several months; its creamy texture and pungent taste make it a perfect spread for bruschetta, or a dressing for pasta and vegetables, as in orecchiette with ricotta forte. A burst of flavour that goes beautifully with the simplest, most rustic dishes of Apulian tradition. More on the cheeses of Puglia.

3. Black pig salami of the Monti Dauni

The salame di maiale nero, made from the local black pig, is one of the most prized specialities of the local pork-curing tradition. It is made from the meat of pigs raised free-range and has an intense, aromatic flavour, brought out by a slow, natural curing. The result is a full, balanced salami with delicate spicy notes, perfect with cheese or on slices of country bread. It stands for an artisan tradition that respects the pace and the flavours of nature.

4. Pane di grano arso: burnt wheat bread

Pane di grano arso, “burnt wheat bread”, comes from an old peasant practice, when grains of wheat were gathered from the fields that had been burnt after the harvest. Today this rustic bread, with its characteristic smoky taste, has been rediscovered and given new value. The dark flour of burnt wheat gives the bread a unique flavour, good with cheese, cured meats and soups, or simply with a drizzle of olive oil. A product that joins tradition and innovation, bringing the real flavours of the past back to the table. More on the grain and bread of the region on the page about Apulian bread and wheat.

5. Nero di Troia: a wine that speaks of its land

Nero di Troia, one of the finest grape varieties grown on the Monti Dauni, makes a robust red wine full of nuances. With intense aromas of ripe fruit, spice and flowers, it is perfect with meat dishes or mature cheeses. It is an authentic expression of the area, the fruit of an old winemaking tradition that values the bond with the land and a passion for quality. The other wines of the region are on the page about Apulian wines.

Discovering the Monti Dauni through their flavours

Exploring the Monti Dauni means immersing yourself in an area rich in history and nature, but above all in a cuisine that celebrates honest, simple ingredients. Every dish tells a story of tradition and respect for the land, and you taste it in these deep, authentic flavours. From fresh pasta to cheese, from cured meats to wine, every meal here is a journey into the culinary roots of this fascinating corner of Puglia.

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