Puglia: sea, food and traditions

Culture & Traditions

Illustration: Selvaggia of Staufen with her falcon in the courtyard of an Apulian castle, before leaving for the North — a reconstruction, not a photograph

Frederick II’s Puglia: the castles, and where Selvaggia’s story really begins

At the end of the summer the Italian series Costanza brought back the name of Selvaggia of Staufen, Frederick II’s daughter. It was filmed between Verona and Vicenza, but the story begins in Puglia: Castelpagano, Castel del Monte, Lucera, Oria, Trani. The real places, and a three-day route.

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Previous Destination

Illustration: a car loaded at dawn outside a house in Puglia at the end of August

When Apulian emigrants went back: at the end of August the car was heavier than on the way down

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Places

Cycling in Puglia: why September and October are the months

The cycling season in Puglia is not summer but September and October: the difficulty here is not gradient, which barely exists, but heat. Which cycling tracks actually exist as against the ones still on paper, how hard each area is, and the thing almost nobody knows — across Italy bikes cost extra on regional trains, but not here.

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Before the Concertone: when the pizzica was something to hide

On 22 August 2026 tens of thousands of people will dance the pizzica in Melpignano at the 29th Notte della Taranta. For most of the twentieth century that same music was peasant music, best not mentioned in front of strangers. How an embarrassment became an identity.