Gnummareddi: the little bundles on every Apulian grill

Small rolls of lamb offal wrapped in caul fat and tied with the animal’s own gut, cooked over coals. What is inside them, why they have six names, and the four ways they are cooked.

Small rolls of lamb offal wrapped in caul fat and tied with the animal’s own gut, cooked over coals. What is inside them, why they have six names, and the four ways they are cooked.

Not the version in the nutrition books, but the everyday table of people who have lived here for generations: from extra virgin oil to broad beans and chicory, from native pulses to durum wheat pasta and local red wine.

In Galatina, next to the pasticciotto, there is the africano: a sort of meringue made with the yolks instead of the whites. You will not find it anywhere else in Italy.

Your home-made passata has separated from its water? It is almost always a question of cooking. Why it happens, how the double boil prevents it, and how to strain the pulp if you bottle raw.

The full recipe: the pre-ferment, the exact proportions, the double baking that makes them properly hard, and the Salento way of soaking them with the sponza frise.

Baked twice until hard, cut with a thread, and wetted before eating. Three seconds, no more.

The quality of a year’s oil is decided in the hours between the tree and the press.

The first bread in Europe to get a DOP, in 2003. Remilled durum semolina, natural sourdough, wood-fired oven — and a rulebook that even specifies the water.

Purple, yellow and orange, grown in sand, and a Slow Food presidium.

The two red grapes that carry Apulian wine abroad. Primitivo is genetically Zinfandel.