In Puglia the grape preserve is called mostarda, and the name comes from the must, not from the mustard seed. The two Italian mostarde share one origin and each lost one ingredient along the way. What the Puglia Region record says, and why a no-added-sugar version works.
Primitivo and Negroamaro are coming in, and Coldiretti expects 10% more grapes than last year. Two generations ago the same week started at five in the morning, the grapes travelled in fifty-kilo reed baskets, and the must was made by treading barefoot in a stone palmento.
Small rolls of lamb offal wrapped in caul fat and tied with the animal’s own gut, cooked over coals. What is inside them, why they have six names, and the four ways they are cooked.