Primitivo and Negroamaro are coming in, and Coldiretti expects 10% more grapes than last year. Two generations ago the same week started at five in the morning, the grapes travelled in fifty-kilo reed baskets, and the must was made by treading barefoot in a stone palmento.
Not the version in the nutrition books, but the everyday table of people who have lived here for generations: from extra virgin oil to broad beans and chicory, from native pulses to durum wheat pasta and local red wine.