Polignano a Mare is famous for summer swimming, but autumn may be the better season to go: in October you can often still walk around in short sleeves, the old town is no longer packed, the kitchens turn to seasonal dishes and the wine harvest is under way. Here is why the town is worth a visit even when the sea is too cool for a swim.
Polignano a Mare, one of the gems of the Puglia coast south of Bari, is known for its clear water and its summer bathing spots. Autumn, though, gives the town a different kind of charm, and turns it into a perfect destination even if you never get in the water. Here is why it is worth visiting Polignano in autumn.
A mild climate
Autumn in Polignano is pleasant and temperate. Temperatures drop, but in October you can often still walk around in short sleeves, enjoying the seafront in comfort. Without the scorching heat of summer you can explore the town on foot, without the crowds. The golden light of the autumn sun is ideal for photographing the cliffs and the sea.
The old town
The historic centre is a delight to wander: winding lanes, whitewashed houses with balconies full of flowers, picturesque alleys. And then there are the cliffs dropping straight into the sea, a striking landscape in every season, from dawn to sunset. In autumn the cooler air lets you browse the small shops without hurrying, looking at local products such as ceramics, textiles and food specialities. And don’t skip an artisan gelato, even in October. For more on the town itself, see our guide to Polignano a Mare.
Seasonal food
One of the best reasons to come in autumn is the food. Apulian cooking is built on fresh, seasonal ingredients, and in autumn that means dishes like orecchiette with cime di rapa, the slightly bitter turnip greens that are the region’s signature winter vegetable (here is our recipe), as well as porcini mushrooms and chestnuts. Many of the town’s restaurants offer seasonal menus that celebrate these flavours. Pair your meal with a good Apulian wine for the full experience.
Culture and events
Autumn is also a lively season for events around Polignano, with concerts, festivals and feste patronali, the processions and street celebrations each town holds for its patron saint. One of the big ones is the Fiera del Levante, a major trade and cultural fair held in Bari, a little under 40 km away, between the end of September and the first days of October.
In October, in Acquaviva delle Fonti, about 45 minutes’ drive from Polignano, there is also the Sagra del Calzone. A sagra is a village food festival built around a single dish, and here the dish is the calzone, a traditional filled pie: a good chance to taste it and see local food culture up close.
The wine season
If you love wine, think seriously about coming to Puglia in September and October, because it is the season of the wine. From the grape harvest to the winemaking, there is plenty to do, with vineyard visits and tastings, including in the countryside around Polignano. All over Puglia you can taste local wines, from full-bodied reds to fresh whites. To see how the harvest used to be done, read about the grape harvest the old way.
The sea without swimming
Even when it is no longer beach weather, the seascape of Polignano is breathtaking in every season. The cliffs and clear water offer spectacular views from the town’s lookout points, such as the famous viewpoint over Lama Monachile, the small cove that cuts into the town. You can stroll along the seafront and take in the Adriatic in the quiet that autumn brings.
In short
Polignano a Mare in autumn is a place to discover and enjoy. Mild weather, natural beauty, culture and food turn it into a perfect season to visit, away from the summer chaos. Whether it is a romantic walk, a lunch overlooking the sea or one of the many local events, the town will win you over. And if you are still deciding when to travel, here is why September is the best month for Puglia.
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