In Bari Vecchia, the old town of Bari, there is a street where women still make orecchiette by hand every day, sitting outside their front doors: the Arco Basso, known as the street of the orecchiette. What orecchiette are, how the gesture works, who Nunzia is, and how to visit with respect.
Bari Vecchia, the beating heart of the Apulian capital, is a jewel of history and tradition. Among its alleys, full of old stories, there is one street that captures the essence of the city’s culture: the street of the orecchiette.
Orecchiette, a symbol of Puglia
Orecchiette are a pasta with a unique shape, like little ears, which is where the name comes from: orecchie means ears. Making them is a craft that needs skill and precision. They are made from durum wheat flour and water, and each one is hollowed out with a quick, firm movement of the fingers. They are often served with cime di rapa, turnip tops, the slightly bitter winter greens of Puglia, in the dish that best brings out the flavour of both the pasta and the local vegetables.
How orecchiette are made: a gesture that takes years to master. The movement is simple to describe and very hard to do well. You take a small cylinder of dough, put it on a rough work surface and drag it towards you with your thumb, so that it curls over on itself. Then you turn the little disc inside out over your thumb, and it takes on its typical concave shape. The secret is the pressure: too much and the orecchietta breaks, too little and it stays too thick in the middle. The women of Bari Vecchia, who have done it for decades, turn out perfect orecchiette in a matter of seconds, a speed that only muscle memory can give. The pasta must be rough enough to hold the sauce, and that is why re-milled durum wheat semolina cannot be replaced.
A step back into the past
Walking through the narrow streets of Bari Vecchia, it is impossible not to be charmed by the Arco Basso, a corner that keeps local traditions intact. Here, every day, the expert hands of the women of Bari bring to life one of the symbols of Apulian food: orecchiette. The street of the orecchiette is a true treasure of authenticity.
The art of orecchiette
The street is famous for its handmade production of this typical pasta. The women sit in front of their homes and work flour and water with great skill, turning them into small culinary wonders. Their gesture is quick and sure, the result of years of experience handed down from generation to generation.
Nunzia, the orecchiette lady
Among the best-known faces of the street is Nunzia, affectionately known as “the orecchiette lady”. For years she has been a point of reference for residents and visitors alike. Her skill at making orecchiette is unmatched, and her passion for the tradition shows in every single piece she makes. Nunzia is the soul of the street of the orecchiette, and anyone lucky enough to meet her is won over by her warmth and by the mastery of her hands.
When a tradition becomes a tourist attraction. In recent years the Arco Basso has become one of the most visited places in Bari, and videos of the women making orecchiette on the pavement circulate widely on social media. But there is a side to consider: mass tourism risks turning a living tradition into postcard folklore. The women who still make orecchiette outside their homes do not do it for tourists. They do it because it has always been done this way, because they sell fresh pasta to the families of the neighbourhood, because it is their way of working. Respecting that authenticity means buying, not just taking photographs.
An authentic experience
For visitors, walking down the street of the orecchiette in Bari is an immersive experience. You can see the pasta being made up close and, in many cases, buy fresh, genuine pasta straight from the hands of the women who made it. This direct contact with the food traditions of Bari makes the visit unique and unforgettable.
Can’t get to Bari? You can buy handmade orecchiette in our shop.
Tradition and modern life
Despite the arrival of the modern world, the street of the orecchiette holds out as a stronghold of tradition. Here the clock seems to have stopped, and every corner tells a story of passion and dedication. It has also become a meeting point for those who want to rediscover the cultural roots of Bari and get to know the real spirit of the city.
Visiting the street of the orecchiette
If you are in Bari, a visit to the street of the orecchiette is a must. It lies in the heart of Bari Vecchia, at the Arco Basso, and is easy to reach on foot from the main sights, starting with the Basilica of San Nicola. Wandering through the alleys you can taste not only the fresh pasta but the authentic atmosphere of a city that lives by its traditions.
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